Thursday: The Adriatic and Singing with the Ghosts

The weather is bright and sunny in the low 80's. An afternoon breeze cools just when it is needed. To get the general feel of the environment and rolling hills, think Tuscany. Building construction in Groznjan is solid limestone like Florence near the Cathedral. The meandering narrow streets feel like the old city in Jerusalem. Inhabited by about 80 people, they are mostly artists and musicians with studios and galleries and a few small shops. No T-shirts or other standard tourist faire. Being a small agricultural town, it posed no threat in any of the major wars and was largely ignored, saving its history. Around the village hill are olive trees, hayfields, vineyards, and a barely two lane road which leads away from the village, down the hill to the next village, larger, with a bank, the police, a square to Marshall Tito, and some "real stores" -- all on its own hill. And then, 15 minutes later -- the 78 degree Adriatic, or as overheard: "really heaven".

When the kids got up this morning, there was some genuine excitement about the day. Although practices had gone well the afternoon before, the most effective practice thus far took place this morning. They were on, paid careful attention to both conductors, and started working well with the other choir.

 Lunch. Change to swimming suits, off across the fields, past the one remaining Marshall Tito, Yugoslavian apartment complex, and into Umag, on the Adriatic. This is the town with internet and the hospital, so was familiar to a few of us. The nearly 100 member entourage poured out of the busses, snaked our way down a foot-path through a pine woods, continued fifty meters along the beach and then marched directly into the Adriatic. The bay didn't seem to notice the first few of us, then it started welcoming us first with gentle undulations and then waves that lapped and tugged as the seemingly unending line of singers completed their march to the sea. Smiles were universal. For nearly three hours they splashed, played chicken, learned to squirt water like a sperm whale, chatted in the shade or on the beach or strolled along the shore. The visibly contented choir members then boarded busses and headed back to Groznjan.

Following dinner and a short practice, the Priest opened the doors of this wonderful 900 year old farm church allowing the choirs to walk through the concert. The church paintings depicted early Roman Christian lives, the Coliseum, a couple of lions, and God's protection (I suspect a theme that rang important to the early settlers). A combination of simple wood pews, flat square stained glass and a full collection of liturgical supplies made it clear we were in the community's functioning church.

Our sons and daughters joined the more than 40 generations of people singing in the double domed Basilica. Fifty people, more than half of the town's population, filed into the church and applauded extensively. The acoustics were remarkable with nearly two seconds between the close of a note and silence. It seemed like a church designed for intimate music.

The Carmina Slovenica choir is very polished with in-unison movements, and musical power. They presented a totally contemporary, intense, difficult program. Ensemble provided a mix of contemporary and more melodic pieces, with more emphasis on musical sound. When the two groups sing together, they sound like one choir.  Several audience members stopped Ensemble members with thanks and comments about how wonderful the concert was. I found myself thinking, if they can sound that good at the beginning of the tour, I am having trouble imagining how wonderful the final concerts will be. The audience was quite appreciative.

Of course the two directors and many choir members found much to think and talk about. They identified many places to improve, mistakes to avoid and changes to make in the program. (Bob was feeling Contemporary-envy and will be adding more contemporary works from the repetoire, removing some classics). It is great fun watching artists with strong opinions butt heads and work things out. Tomorrow morning's rehearsals will focus on the changes in preparation for tomorrow evening's concert in the largest city in the area, Porec.

There was no trouble getting them to sleep.